Tuesday, July 20, 2010

Day 17- Hofn to Reykjavik to Reykjanes






Another intense day of travels. However, I completed the circle around Iceland today. The trip to Reykjavik was pretty long, 9 hours, but we made a lot of amazing stops along the way, which made the trek completely worth it. One, we stopped for an hour, which was close to Vatnajokoll National Park aka the biggest ice cap/glacier in Europe and outside the arctic. It was so beautiful to see, but horrible to witness. You could watch and hear the glacier retreating right before your eyes, at a very fast rate- nature in fast-forward motion. The cracking of the ice and the swaying of the gargantuan icebergs in the water was enough evidence to know that climate change is taking its heavy-handed effects. It was the first time I didn't have to wear a jacket in Iceland. I didn't even have my sweater on! How is it that the warmest place I have been to so far is right next to the largest ice cap in Europe? I'm confused by this too. At the same time, they were doing boat tours through the ice melt- as if it wasn't melting fast enough. I can only imagine how this increases the heat of the water surrounding the ice while also polluting the pure glacial waters captured within the lagoon. It is not going anywhere. The sound of the ice cracking was pretty astonishing. I had never heard it this loud before. It is a little worrisome..

The bus driver yesterday from Husavik was talking to me about this. He said that he heard a farmer nearby Reykjavik on the radio yesterday. There is an ice cap across the waters from Reykjavik, and this farmer has his farm close to this ice cap. He said that it was melting faster than ever and is now seeing parts of the mountain he has never seen before. This is climate change in action. The bus driver was also explaining to me the temperature rises in the water around Iceland. Coming from a major fishing town, he knows the particularities of the waters. They are now finding fish species they had never seen before that have migrated this way because of the warming waters. At the same time, the once local fish species have migrated north to try to find colder waters. This may all be a complete disaster in about 10 years. Kind of scary to think about.

On a lighter, more cheery note, we also stopped at a series of waterfalls that were just spectacular. They reminded me a lot of Hawaiian ones because of their size and length of the water falling- kind of like a trickle compared to the ones I have seen previously. They were so beautiful. Camping sites were next to all of them. Next time around, I think it would be really fun to go camping around Iceland. There are so many spots and the sites are in the most beautiful places this little country has to offer. More time would be great too..

Tomorrow I will play it low key maybe, depending on whether I can find a way to Krysuvik, the last volcanic hot spot I have yet to visit. Although, this one is due to erupt at an moment based on its historical patterns (happens every 9-10 years, last one was in 2000). If not, then there is the Blue Lagoon, which is apparently a must go to and see in its beauty and disgust. It will be interesting to observe how this spa industry is now bustling around the effluent and by-product of the geothermal plant. This is a case study I was told to see by Atli, the Thorverk Seaweed Plant manager. The day after is my last real meeting with my professionals. I will be going to the 2 geothermal power plants in Reykjanes, guided by one of HS-Orka's very own personnel, who is coming to pick me up! No more renting cars, thankfully.

Image 1: Leaving Hofn- Vatnajokull
Image 2: Southern Iceland- wild flowers
Image 3: The Glacier Park- melting ice
Image 4: Waterfall #1
Image 5: Waterfall #2

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