Day 5- Southern Inland Exploration: Hellisheidi-Nesjavellir-Thingvellir-Fludir-Gulfoss-Geysir

So I fell asleep in the middle of my writing this blog, that's why it is published a day late, ha..whoops! The contents still refer to 7/09..

What a day I had- I'm beat! So jammed packed- I did and saw so much that my brain is mush, especially thanks to the geothermally heated hot tub I just came out of- thank you Vladimir, the owner of this wonderful hostel.

It began when I rented my car. It was decently priced..cheap compared to many other rentals. It took a total of 5 minutes to have it in my possession for the next 24 hours, which meant let's take full advantage of this opportunity to drive around part of the southern inland chunk of Iceland.

I first went to the drilling rig at Hellisheidi operated by a company called Jardboranir, which I think translates to something like 'earth drilling'. Bjorn, the project manager, took me on board and showed me around. He was very kind and willing to answer any questions I had. I spent about 2-3 hours there, checking things out and learning every bit I possibly could in that time- picking his brain as much as possible. I found out that they had just finished drilling this well at about 10 PM yesterday. It is to be an injection well rather than a production one, meaning that when the hot water is used, they can put it back into the earth to try to keep the water table level. They can only do this in high temperature zones. If they tried to do it in low temperature zones (like Selfoss) the used water that has already cooled would further cool down the hot water, making it not as productive. He discussed the details of drilling with me, while telling stories of past atypical events that sometimes happen, such as the earth collapsing from drilling, an example of an extreme situation. They use pretty much the same methodology as oil rigs, except there are specific details that have been tweaked a bit to accommodate for drilling into the earth in high temperatures. He was even able to point out which part of the rig failed in the Gulf of Mexico. It is the most important part, and without it everyone one site would be in great danger. They have a series of tailing ponds where the drilling material is flushed through the system and dropped into the bottoms to prevent the released water from becoming contaminated. As they drill, the are continuously flushing out the well with water to relieve it from the remains. I could go on forever about this, but it was so amazing to be there and see it somewhat in action. They were measuring today. The specialists behind this is ISOR (Sverrir's people). However, while I was there, as they were measuring they were encountering a problem. They measure using a steel cable and a simple computer system displays the information and reading of the cable (how far below the surface, tension applied to it, etc.) The wells they have been drilling in the last 5 years or so have adopted a special technique of diagonal drilling after a certain depth. The cable used for measuring seemed to be getting stuck, or was not able to proceed any further, at the precise moment where the well takes a 30 degree turn. I hope they managed to solve the issue. Another interesting fact about injection wells is that they have had many problems with them and typically don't last very long. When they inject the hot water back into the earth through this well, the rock and its cracks/fissures begin to expand. After a little while it expands so much to the point where it is no longer functional as it was and the porosity is lost. The cracks become filled and the water can't seep back into the bedrock.

In 2008, Iceland had an economic collapse and the country went bankrupt. Speaking with Bjorn, he had brought to my attention the residual effects of this on the drilling industry. It was the first time that this issue has been raised for me in regards to geothermal. He explained to me that during the 2004-2007/8 expanding bubble, they had to keep up with the demand by purchasing newer, better, bigger, and more drills, expanding their fleet. In 2007/8 there were about 17 wells scheduled to drill and they were trying to come up with a plan in order to keep up. In four weeks, everything fell apart. No more money=no more drilling and they had to sell some of their rigs in order to stay afloat. This year's drilling, so far, is at an all time low with only 2 boreholes so far. They even had more jobs last year. Now they are looking to expand their clientele abroad. Currently that have gone to Switzerland and are considering other areas also.

Afterwards, I drove on over to Nesjavellir, the older plant also in the Hengill region. What first struck me on my way there was the incredible beauty of the landscape. I was able to see the pipeline above ground and watched and documented it leading back to Reykjavik as I followed it to Nesjavellir. It hugs the road and is followed by power lines that send the electricity from the steam. It is 20+ kilometers long whose diameter is enough to fit in a few people, I think. Its presence is stark in the landscape as a foreign object that seems to have just landed there. Along the way I saw sheep and goats that were using it as shelter, evidence that it is being adapted by the wildlife.

The Nesjavellir power plant is located on the other side of the Hekla volcano from Hellisheidi in the Hengill region. It is an active volcano, which is why it produces such intense energy. Placed on the ridge that is splitting Iceland apart, this force is what activates the landscape. I did not have enough time to hike around the site, unfortunately, due to time constraints (I had to meet Hannibal at 3PM in Fludir). However, I got to go inside the plant for a little bit and learn about how it operates. They have a beautiful topographical site model of the entire site it occupies. The power plant is located at the base of the mountain range. Its pipeline tentacles extend outward and up into the mountains to encapsulate the extreme hot spots of hot spots. There are pipelines that serve 3 different purposes: get the hot water and steam from deep inside the earth in the mountainous wells, get fresh water from nearby Lake Thingvallavatn, and send the geothermally heated fresh water and steam-driven power to Reykjavik. This power plant is older than Hellisheidi, with I think over 30 boreholes around. The surroundings were extremely beautiful.

I then made my way over to Fludir, which was a little challenging to get to because of having to cross the mountain ranges. However, I got to drive along side Lake Thingvallavatn and through Thingvellir National Park, also a UNESCO Cultural Heritage Site, for it is the birth place of the 1st parliament ever. The Althing were created around 800-900 AD, upon the settlement of Iceland by the Vikings/Norwegians. This has to be one of the most beautiful places my eyes have ever seen and none of you should leave this earth without bearing witness to it.

I continued driving around it and arrived into Fludir a little late. I couldn't help but stop in designated areas to take in the magnificent beauty of the landscape around me. Because there are few trees between cities, the horizontality is emphasized. Mountains and volcanoes feel so close but then you notice how far away the are when you see a tiny farm in the distance.

Fludir is a little town of about 400 people, mostly farmers (greenhouses and farmland). Hannibal was so kind. He brought a colleague of his, I think, a younger boy named Bergird (spelling?) to translate. Hannibal understands english, but finds it difficult to speak. They were both so amazing. We started the little adventure with a coffee and dessert and discussed what my purpose was and what they could show me. Turns out, they had a lot to offer. We first went to Fludir's geothermal source, the hot springs. It was absolutely beautiful. I haven't been able to get so close to it. Hannibal had a pretty heavy duty diesel truck, so we drove through the river and onto the other side to walk along, on, and around the springs. This area is the highest low temperature zone in Iceland, with temperatures around 180 Celsius I think. There was also a swimming pool that has been in use since 1900 that is heated by the hot springs surrounding it. They also pointed out a nearby farm to me, whose soil thaws before any others because of the heat in the ground and increases productivity. Fascinating! We then went to see a few wells and pumping stations. We didn't get out of the car, but Hannibal told me stories about the drill holes. For example, there was one that they were drilling. After a few hundred meters, pressure began intensely building up. With a bit of warning, everyone ran a way and the rig burst into the air like a geysir because of the pressure release. Finally, I got to go to a HUGE greenhouse, or rather, 5 greenhouses that have been combined together. It was Bergird's and his family's operation. I learned that this little town supplies about 80% of Iceland's tomatoes, cucumbers, and other vegetables. Bergird's operation mostly grows tomatoes. They use a plant for about 6 months since they peak their production at that time. Annually, they grow over 300 tons of tomatoes. I was very impressed by the statistics.

Comparing this operation with the smaller one I had seen yesterday in Hveragerdi, this system is entirely computerized. It also runs more geothermally heated pipes- two simultaneous systems that come from different sources. One hugs the walls, as I had seen yesterday, and another runs along the ground, elevated to be close to the plants. They also use lights, and they were using them while I was there. Larger operation=more energy. They were both wonderful, and I couldn't have thanked them enough for their time and willingness to share their town with me.

At this point, I was a bit over 30 kilometers away from Gulfoss, one of Iceland's largest and most visited waterfalls. I decided to go since I had the car and didn't know when I would get such an opportunity again. They were spectacular and incredibly extensive. There were different paths where you could see and experience them from different angles and view points: from a distance, high above, and RIGHT NEXT to them. So amazing- words can't begin to describe.

Afterwards, I went to Geysir as it was on my way back to Selfoss. This place is famous for their geyser that I think is larger than Ol' Faithful at Yellowstone Park. It releases its pressure and unleashes it fury as steaming hot water erupts from the ground every 3-5 minutes. It is part of a larger extensive site of hot springs that were just phenomenal to see and get close to. There was this one whose water was a bright sky blue- a blue I had never seen in water before. I documented this area as much as I could, for the hot spring source provides the very existence for geothermal use. I took hundreds of photos of Geysir trying to capture the timely process of the steam build up and explosion. There were even instances where it erupted twice in a row! It was sooo cool.

I had an amazing day, but it was exhausting (hence why I passed out in the middle of writing this). Tomorrow (today) I leave Selfoss and go back to Reykjavik for the night, to then proceed northbound to Reykholar. I am very sad to leave this hostel, Bed & Breakfast. Everyone was so nice to me and treated me like family. Vladimir would sometimes wait up for me to get back if I arrived late (Sometimes between 10-11 PM), and would look at his watch and jokingly ask "Where have you been young lady?". His brother would come hang out also, and we would have a beer together as they shared stories of Iceland and its history with me. Vladimir makes fresh bread every day, which was funny to learn at first because he is what I imagine a Viking to look like haha. I enjoyed my stay here very much. It will be hard to have a hostel that would be better than this experience. Anyone who comes to Iceland should stay here. Not only are the people wonderful, but the location is fantastic- a hub in the middle of all the significant sites to go see in the southern center. Traveling for the next 2 days will be tiresome, so it is time for a nap to re-energize.

I wish I could upload more pictures from this day, but I suppose I will just have to show you in person :)

Image 1: Hellisheidi drilling site- Me in the protective wear
Image 2: Nesjavellir Pipeline- the MASSIVELY long one that goes to Reykjavik- around 40 km i think?
Image 3: Lake Thingvallavatn- driving around it to get to Fludir
Image 4: Fludir- natural hot springs and some greenhouses in the background
Image 5: Geysir- the infamous geothermal water spewing hole